This is probably not a book I will afford myself, a coffee table book called The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw, but it's very interesting and the some of the photos are amazing.
About the book:
Matt Warshaw, former editor of SURFER magazine, knows a hell of a lot about surfing, and is up there with the most knowledgeable authors out there. After five years of research and writing, he has completed a totally unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With a voice that is definitive, funny, and wholly original, The History of Surfing is definitely worth a read.